We have made friends with a guide here at the Coconut Grove named Kwaku. Today he took us to the village right next to our hotel to show us how they smoke the fish. The village is set on the ocean down a dirt road and on every side of you are giant piles of wood.Here we were greeted by many children and women and were shown the smoking process. We saw the ovens and layers upon layers of drying racks. After the fish are smoked they are taken to the Volta region to be sold. Again we were amazed by how friendly everyone is as we welcomed into their homes. Kwaku told us yesterday that he could bring us to a Chop Bar, something we have wanted to do since arriving in Ghana. A Chop Bar is a restaurant where the locals eat, but it's not what Americans would call a restaurant. this Chop Bar, which had no name, was located in an alley behind the place where used appliances were being hawked on the sidewalk and spilling out into the street. Kwaku told us to follow him and we blindly did up the uneven dirt path leading behind this dilapidated building. There we found our outdoor restaurant. There was a wall that was lined with various bowls to wash and rinse the dishes. Women were squatting down peeling cooked cassava in a huge bowl while other were taking the pieces of cassava and mashing it with a huge wooden pestle. Then another woman took this mash and kneading it with water and plantains until a fine dough was created. Pieces were broken off and placed in a bowl. We then brought the bowl a few feet over to choose between palm nut soup or light soup. In our soup was a pics of goat meat or fish. Tilley and Senora had the goat and Shema and Kristen had fish. Bridget politely declined both but watched us feast, which was a feat in itself. We ate at tables nearby that had bowl of water, bars of soap, and pitchers of water. after washing our hands, we ate in the traditional Ghanian style, using only our right hand. No forks or spoons were available. Dipping our fingers into hot soup and wrestling meat off the bones while scooping it all up with the fufu is not easy and Tilley made a mess of her last clean shirt, but we all managed to do our guide proud. This lovely meal cost one cedi, fifty pesewas, which is about sixty cents. Then on to the Bakatue Festival.
This festival, a celebration of fishing season, is an annual event in the town of Elmina. Kwaku, who is an Elmina native, dropped us off near the Chief's house where the procession to the harbor would begin. We stood and waited for a bit, popping in and out of small shops and stands as children came running up to us eager to learn our names and have us take their picture. We stopped for a cold Coca-Cola as we waited for the procession to begin. Finally all the chiefs lined up and began to move. Each chief and the Queen mothers were seated on different, ornate sedan chairs thrones and were carried on the heads of four men. The Chiefs and Queen Mothers were decked out in their best clothing and jewelry all the way down to their feet. Groups of people followed behind each Chief or Queen Mother who we assume were family members. The procession concluded with the Head Chief who was wearing all white and smiling and waving as he went. Loud cheers could be heard whenever he appeared. We jumped in Kwaku's car and he drove us to the next stop: the harbor. Upon dropping us off, Kwaku told us to find a seat because it wasn't very crowded yet! It certainly seemed crowded to us! People were everywhere! Announcements were being made on loud speakers about the events, music played, vendors sold their goods and children ran about. We stopped the Fan Milk boy, similar to an ice cream man, ,except it is a boy on a bike with a cooler in front that says "Fan Milk". We each had Fan Ice, which is a plastic bag of vanilla soft serve that you squeeze into your mouth. Mmmmmm it was delicious and perfect for the sweltering heat. They also have Strawberry Frozen Yogurt and frozen Chocolate Milk which will have to try next time! We headed into the big tent filled with tons of people. It was hard to see but in the harbor were regatta races and people cheering. The chiefs all made their way to the harbor for the races but as this point we were all melting and dying to jump into the pool. Kwaku drove us back to the hotel and we threw on our suits and jumped into the pool to cool off. After we cooled off, Senora, Kristen, and Shema were ready to paint the town red. Kwaku picked us up and asked us what we were in the mood to eat. Senora wanted eggs and shema wanted fish so he took us to dinner to meet all our needs. At the sea stop we walked up to a small table out front where a women had a small pan that you can order eggs, vegetables, breads, kanke which is fermented corn. Then we walked across the street to another store front with a grill outside loaded with fresh fish (fresh snapper and tilapia). Amy and I picked out our fish and then we again walked across the street to order Senora's eggs and to try the local sugarcane liquor, Mula. The bar was inside the little store. Through a caged window they served us. They poured with a fork attached to a shot glass a white clear liquid to sample. We were't too crazy about it. We wanted to bring back some for Tilley and Bridget so they filled half a water bottle for three cedi's, approximately $1.80. We went to sit down on a dirt yard at the side of the store but all the tables were full. So, after a few minutes four chairs appeared and were set in a circle. About 5 minutes later a table appears. There are no lights and lots of loud hip light music. Our food was delivered and once again we did not use utensils. Senora wanted to see her food so she took a picture. Kwaku used his cell phone light for Kristen to filet her fish. After dinner we danced a bit and then decided to go to the shell station. We heard many stories that the shell gas station was the place to be. They weren't kidding. The place was hopping! Everyone was dancing. We had a great time. We woke Tilley and Bridget up when we got home to tell them of our great adventure.
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