Sunday: The End
The four of us were not early to rise after our night at the club. So after a late start to the day and some packing, we headed out for a few final stops.
A steady rain rolled in for the first time since arriving in Ghana. We took a cab to an Internet Cafe in order to confirm our flights, visited the Global Mamas shop, and had one final dinner at Mama Mias.
Back at the Afia we napped for our journey home, shared some Bitter Lemons in the lobby and reminisced about our time in Ghana. Amy returned from Cape Coast around 11:00pm. We finished packing our bags and at 11:45 pm, Kojo and his friend came to pick us up for the airport. We said goodbye to our new friend and entered the airport around 12:15am.
Finally landed at JFK on Monday at 4:45ish after what felt like two never ending flights.
It is now 12:15am on Tuesday morning and we are still traveling....
Stay tuned for our personal reflections to come later this week....
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Saturday: I love my life
Saturday: I love my Life
Today's plan was to find Marley's Ghana geocache and visit the Aburi Botanical Garden. Kojo picked us up around 10 am. We learned that it would take two hours to get to the garden even though according to the GPS it was only 19.7 miles away. But due to traffic and the new highway not being built it would be around two hours. After traveling on many back roads, we eventually drove on the only 4 lane highway we saw in Ghana. We even went though a toll booth as Nana bought plantain chips out of the car window from the girls on the street. We traveled on a long windy road up a mountain which on a clear day you can see all of Accra. We passed by many large beautiful homes, one which belonged to the President of Ghana. The GPS led us to Rita Marley's (Bob's wife) home and music studio. Across the street was a path which led us to a clearing with a big tree and a pile of rocks. We had to be very discreet because many muggles (non-geocachers) were around and if the geocache were to be moved from it's spot then the cache would not be able to be found. Tilley was the first to spot the cache in the tree covered with some leaves. The cache was a green tuperware container filled with many trinkets, a log book and a travel bug. The bugs goal is to travel to 6 continents. Kristen signed her geocache name and our names into the log book. We also placed the World of Inquiry travel bug into the cache. Our bug's goal is to travel back to our school eventually. We think it will be awesome for our students to follow the WOIS travel bug around the world especially since they learned to geocache during Outward Bound this year. Even Kojo was excited to learn about geocaching!
From here we traveled down the road to the Aburi Botanical Garden. Our tour guide showed us many spice trees including bay leaf, all spice and cinnamon. The oldest tree is the garden is 500 years old! We also saw parasite plants which take over a host tree eventually destroying it and taking it's place. We were surprised to see a rusty broken down helicopter in the middle of the garden that was left there for children to play on! This is something that would never happen in the US. Kojo joined us for the tour and for lunch. Tilley was surprised when her fish and chips arrived- eyes, tail and all fried up. She even ate Ghanian style using only her right hand. Well, she tried to at least. Lunch was filled with showing Kojo pictures of some of our students and asking each other questions. At one point Kojo asked us if it was true that Americans really think that Africa is all jungles? We struggled with our answer because many people do.
At this point Nana was getting nervous because she needed to be at Esther's dress shop by 4:00pm to pick up an order. We arrived at 4:10 pm and Nana was gently scolded for being late. We explained that we were now working on Ghana time. :-). Kojo drove us past a Catholic Church which was by far the biggest building and one of the most beautiful. Back at the hotel we rested up for our last night out!
Kojo picked us up again at 10:00pm to head out to a club to hear some Ghanian Hiplife music. We told Kojo we only wanted to hear Ghanian music, no American music since it seemed that Lionel Richie was following us around Ghana and we had had enough! Kojo took us to a place named Epo. The four of us and Kojo sat on the rooftop and shared some Stones and Clubs and enjoyed the view and the music.Tilley and Bridget went downstairs and over to this street vendor in search of dinner. We watched in fascination as people placed orders and cooks prepared their food. Among the frenzied activity we ordered fried rice with vegetables and shredded beef noodles. This was one of the most delicious meals we had in Ghana, even though it burned our mouths. After dinner it was time to dance. We headed back downstairs and around the corner to enter the dance club. Nana walked right up to the bouncer and said "I'm a bouncer too!". We danced the rest of the night away with our buddy Kojo to some of our new favorite songs. Nana and Tilley got quite the kick out of watching people dance much better than the rest of us could. After multiple requests to the DJ to hear our favorite song, a local Ghanian took pity on us and told us we needed to tip the DJ in order to have our song played. Nana passed a tip along and our song was the next one up. A wonderful time was had by all and many new dance moves were learned for Afro Club Tilley.
Today's plan was to find Marley's Ghana geocache and visit the Aburi Botanical Garden. Kojo picked us up around 10 am. We learned that it would take two hours to get to the garden even though according to the GPS it was only 19.7 miles away. But due to traffic and the new highway not being built it would be around two hours. After traveling on many back roads, we eventually drove on the only 4 lane highway we saw in Ghana. We even went though a toll booth as Nana bought plantain chips out of the car window from the girls on the street. We traveled on a long windy road up a mountain which on a clear day you can see all of Accra. We passed by many large beautiful homes, one which belonged to the President of Ghana. The GPS led us to Rita Marley's (Bob's wife) home and music studio. Across the street was a path which led us to a clearing with a big tree and a pile of rocks. We had to be very discreet because many muggles (non-geocachers) were around and if the geocache were to be moved from it's spot then the cache would not be able to be found. Tilley was the first to spot the cache in the tree covered with some leaves. The cache was a green tuperware container filled with many trinkets, a log book and a travel bug. The bugs goal is to travel to 6 continents. Kristen signed her geocache name and our names into the log book. We also placed the World of Inquiry travel bug into the cache. Our bug's goal is to travel back to our school eventually. We think it will be awesome for our students to follow the WOIS travel bug around the world especially since they learned to geocache during Outward Bound this year. Even Kojo was excited to learn about geocaching!
From here we traveled down the road to the Aburi Botanical Garden. Our tour guide showed us many spice trees including bay leaf, all spice and cinnamon. The oldest tree is the garden is 500 years old! We also saw parasite plants which take over a host tree eventually destroying it and taking it's place. We were surprised to see a rusty broken down helicopter in the middle of the garden that was left there for children to play on! This is something that would never happen in the US. Kojo joined us for the tour and for lunch. Tilley was surprised when her fish and chips arrived- eyes, tail and all fried up. She even ate Ghanian style using only her right hand. Well, she tried to at least. Lunch was filled with showing Kojo pictures of some of our students and asking each other questions. At one point Kojo asked us if it was true that Americans really think that Africa is all jungles? We struggled with our answer because many people do.
At this point Nana was getting nervous because she needed to be at Esther's dress shop by 4:00pm to pick up an order. We arrived at 4:10 pm and Nana was gently scolded for being late. We explained that we were now working on Ghana time. :-). Kojo drove us past a Catholic Church which was by far the biggest building and one of the most beautiful. Back at the hotel we rested up for our last night out!
Kojo picked us up again at 10:00pm to head out to a club to hear some Ghanian Hiplife music. We told Kojo we only wanted to hear Ghanian music, no American music since it seemed that Lionel Richie was following us around Ghana and we had had enough! Kojo took us to a place named Epo. The four of us and Kojo sat on the rooftop and shared some Stones and Clubs and enjoyed the view and the music.Tilley and Bridget went downstairs and over to this street vendor in search of dinner. We watched in fascination as people placed orders and cooks prepared their food. Among the frenzied activity we ordered fried rice with vegetables and shredded beef noodles. This was one of the most delicious meals we had in Ghana, even though it burned our mouths. After dinner it was time to dance. We headed back downstairs and around the corner to enter the dance club. Nana walked right up to the bouncer and said "I'm a bouncer too!". We danced the rest of the night away with our buddy Kojo to some of our new favorite songs. Nana and Tilley got quite the kick out of watching people dance much better than the rest of us could. After multiple requests to the DJ to hear our favorite song, a local Ghanian took pity on us and told us we needed to tip the DJ in order to have our song played. Nana passed a tip along and our song was the next one up. A wonderful time was had by all and many new dance moves were learned for Afro Club Tilley.
Friday, July 8, 2011
A-tisket A-casket
Friday: A-tisket A-casket
We had a late start this morning because two of the four of us fell prey to last night's dinner. Thanks to Imodium we were able to head out around noon. We went looking for the famous casket companies of Ghana. Some of us were expecting a large showroom full of caskets, instead they were small workshops on the side of the road. Now these are not typical caskets, but instead custom made caskets in different shapes. For example you could get a fish casket, robot casket, Star Beer or Coke bottle casket, hammer casket, a Canon camera casket, crab or lobster casket, a tro tro casket. We even were able to see them working on a hammer casket that is going to be shipped to Belgium. We enjoyed wandering through the neighborhood along with Ghanians, children, chickens and sheep. We stopped a music/DVD stand where we purchased a burned CD of Hiplife music for Afro Club Tilley. We watched chickens being slaughtered on the street. And a funeral procession which was loud and noisy with honking horns and a pickup truck overloaded with men dressed in black with the casket. They were followed by many tro-tros full of people. The women were in black and white. We learned that funerals are usually on Friday followed by thanksgiving on Sunday, a gathering where mourners give donations to the family of the deceased.
We hopped on a totally packed tro-tro (18 people plus driver and conductor) shoving Señora way in the back. We road to the tro-tro station in Accra. The ride cost each of us 45 pesewas. You can't beat the price, so we jumped on another tro-tro headed to Osu. Here we ate lunch at Dynasty Chinese Restaurant. This was the first restaurant that was indoors and air conditioned and we enjoyed it immensely. We topped it all off with Italian gelato down the street. We are now expert negotiators for cabs as we managed to talk a driver down from 8 cedis for the trip to the hotel to 4 cedis.
Back at the hotel, our friend from the cultural center, Ose came to us in the lobby loaded down with Kente cloth. We drove a hard bargain and each ended up with treasures. Each day here in Ghana is jam packed and leaves us exhausted and ready for a shower.
We had a late start this morning because two of the four of us fell prey to last night's dinner. Thanks to Imodium we were able to head out around noon. We went looking for the famous casket companies of Ghana. Some of us were expecting a large showroom full of caskets, instead they were small workshops on the side of the road. Now these are not typical caskets, but instead custom made caskets in different shapes. For example you could get a fish casket, robot casket, Star Beer or Coke bottle casket, hammer casket, a Canon camera casket, crab or lobster casket, a tro tro casket. We even were able to see them working on a hammer casket that is going to be shipped to Belgium. We enjoyed wandering through the neighborhood along with Ghanians, children, chickens and sheep. We stopped a music/DVD stand where we purchased a burned CD of Hiplife music for Afro Club Tilley. We watched chickens being slaughtered on the street. And a funeral procession which was loud and noisy with honking horns and a pickup truck overloaded with men dressed in black with the casket. They were followed by many tro-tros full of people. The women were in black and white. We learned that funerals are usually on Friday followed by thanksgiving on Sunday, a gathering where mourners give donations to the family of the deceased.
We hopped on a totally packed tro-tro (18 people plus driver and conductor) shoving Señora way in the back. We road to the tro-tro station in Accra. The ride cost each of us 45 pesewas. You can't beat the price, so we jumped on another tro-tro headed to Osu. Here we ate lunch at Dynasty Chinese Restaurant. This was the first restaurant that was indoors and air conditioned and we enjoyed it immensely. We topped it all off with Italian gelato down the street. We are now expert negotiators for cabs as we managed to talk a driver down from 8 cedis for the trip to the hotel to 4 cedis.
Back at the hotel, our friend from the cultural center, Ose came to us in the lobby loaded down with Kente cloth. We drove a hard bargain and each ended up with treasures. Each day here in Ghana is jam packed and leaves us exhausted and ready for a shower.
Thursday, July 7, 2011
Thursday: Again on the Road Again
Thursday: Again on the Road Again
We jumped out of bed, packed up our stuff, jumped into the pool and then waved goodbye to the Coconut Grove. We took a van back to Accra stopping at the bank, the infamous Shell Station (no dancing this time!), and then Esther's shop in Osu. Esther claims that Michelle Obama came to her shop and had Esther custom make a dress for her. Señora had measurements taken for a shirt and we watched in fascination as the tailor did not record a single measurement. The cost for a custom-made shirt is 15 Cedis. The van dropped us back off at our first hotel the Afia Beach Hotel where will will finish our stay. Unfortunately, the family suite was booked so Señora and Tilley have a room and Bridget and Burg have a room. We finally were able to watch a Ghanaian soap opera and we realized that soaps are the same no matter where you are. Off to dinner and a good nights rest.
We jumped out of bed, packed up our stuff, jumped into the pool and then waved goodbye to the Coconut Grove. We took a van back to Accra stopping at the bank, the infamous Shell Station (no dancing this time!), and then Esther's shop in Osu. Esther claims that Michelle Obama came to her shop and had Esther custom make a dress for her. Señora had measurements taken for a shirt and we watched in fascination as the tailor did not record a single measurement. The cost for a custom-made shirt is 15 Cedis. The van dropped us back off at our first hotel the Afia Beach Hotel where will will finish our stay. Unfortunately, the family suite was booked so Señora and Tilley have a room and Bridget and Burg have a room. We finally were able to watch a Ghanaian soap opera and we realized that soaps are the same no matter where you are. Off to dinner and a good nights rest.
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
Wednesday: Back to School
Wednesday: Back to School
We met our buddy Kwaku up at the lobby and headed back to Cape Coast to meet Jen and Yahaya. They sponsor a school in a local village about 40 minutes outside of Cape Coast and needed to deliver the teacher's salary of 50 cedi's a month. We tagged along to deliver the many school supplies we brought from home. We loaded up a personal tro-tro and drove out to the village. The tro-tro dropped us off at the top of a hill and we carefully walked down a dirt path to the school. We could see the children outside for recess playing with a ball as we approached. As soon as the children saw us they screamed and ran up to us eager to greet us with: "My name is ....." We took many pictures of them and they were dying to see their picture and laughed hilariously at their images. A bell rang and the students immediately ran to their schoolhouse. The schoolhouse was approximately 10'x14' with 4 windows: no screens and a door. Inside was a cement floor, 3 long benches, a corrugated tin roof, one chalkboard: made of plywood painted with chalkboard paint and a few posters on the walls. 26 children ranging in ages 3 to 8 were sitting on the benches awaiting our arrival. The only thing on the teachers table was chalk. We were greeted by the teacher through an interpreter. We in return introduced ourselves and our school and explained why we were there. The teacher lead the students in a welcome song in Fanti. We placed all the school supplies that we brought on the teacher's table. We then presented each child with a book or item that we brought. We enjoyed seeing their appreciation and excitement on their faces. Jen explained to us that through donations a new school is being built with four rooms and a teachers office. It is their hope that once it is built the Ghanaian government will recognize it as a school and take over running the school. If this school was not there the children would have to walk 3 miles to the village to go to school. Our visit was short but very memorable. We took pictures with the children and said our good byes. On the way home we talked to Jen about how WOIS can make a connection through service projects to support the school.
After a quick lunch at the lovely Oasis hotel where we sat Oceanside and watched the local fisherman haul in their nets full of small silver fish, while others pulled in wooden boats while singing at the top of their lungs, we took a tour at the Cape Coast Castle. This castle was built in 1653 and was one of the largest slave holding sites in the world. Sitting on the edge of town overlooking a rocky coast, this building is more majestic than you would think a slave holding site would be. Even knowing the history, it was a powerful experience to imagine the conditions that the Ghanaians faced in person. We took a guided tour through the castle traveling through the male and female dungeons following the steps they took to the ships through the Door of No Return. This door which was the last before boarding the ships now holds the name, The Door of Return, as family members of former slaves have been invited back to re- enter the castle breaking the chain. The castle also holds an extensive museum of Ghanian history including African American history. Bridget found it interesting which famous men and women were chosen to be a part of the wall of leaders. The usuals: Frederick Douglass, Malcolm X, Martin Luther King Jr. And then: Billie Holiday, Duke Ellington, Stevie Wonder, and Bob Marley.
Kwaku helped Tilley barter for a work of art. Watching the bartering was most entertaining, similar to an Italian dinner where everyone talks at once. Back to the hotel for a quick jump in the pool, dinner on the porch and rest for our last night here at the Coconut Grove. Tomorrow it is back to Accra!
We met our buddy Kwaku up at the lobby and headed back to Cape Coast to meet Jen and Yahaya. They sponsor a school in a local village about 40 minutes outside of Cape Coast and needed to deliver the teacher's salary of 50 cedi's a month. We tagged along to deliver the many school supplies we brought from home. We loaded up a personal tro-tro and drove out to the village. The tro-tro dropped us off at the top of a hill and we carefully walked down a dirt path to the school. We could see the children outside for recess playing with a ball as we approached. As soon as the children saw us they screamed and ran up to us eager to greet us with: "My name is ....." We took many pictures of them and they were dying to see their picture and laughed hilariously at their images. A bell rang and the students immediately ran to their schoolhouse. The schoolhouse was approximately 10'x14' with 4 windows: no screens and a door. Inside was a cement floor, 3 long benches, a corrugated tin roof, one chalkboard: made of plywood painted with chalkboard paint and a few posters on the walls. 26 children ranging in ages 3 to 8 were sitting on the benches awaiting our arrival. The only thing on the teachers table was chalk. We were greeted by the teacher through an interpreter. We in return introduced ourselves and our school and explained why we were there. The teacher lead the students in a welcome song in Fanti. We placed all the school supplies that we brought on the teacher's table. We then presented each child with a book or item that we brought. We enjoyed seeing their appreciation and excitement on their faces. Jen explained to us that through donations a new school is being built with four rooms and a teachers office. It is their hope that once it is built the Ghanaian government will recognize it as a school and take over running the school. If this school was not there the children would have to walk 3 miles to the village to go to school. Our visit was short but very memorable. We took pictures with the children and said our good byes. On the way home we talked to Jen about how WOIS can make a connection through service projects to support the school.
After a quick lunch at the lovely Oasis hotel where we sat Oceanside and watched the local fisherman haul in their nets full of small silver fish, while others pulled in wooden boats while singing at the top of their lungs, we took a tour at the Cape Coast Castle. This castle was built in 1653 and was one of the largest slave holding sites in the world. Sitting on the edge of town overlooking a rocky coast, this building is more majestic than you would think a slave holding site would be. Even knowing the history, it was a powerful experience to imagine the conditions that the Ghanaians faced in person. We took a guided tour through the castle traveling through the male and female dungeons following the steps they took to the ships through the Door of No Return. This door which was the last before boarding the ships now holds the name, The Door of Return, as family members of former slaves have been invited back to re- enter the castle breaking the chain. The castle also holds an extensive museum of Ghanian history including African American history. Bridget found it interesting which famous men and women were chosen to be a part of the wall of leaders. The usuals: Frederick Douglass, Malcolm X, Martin Luther King Jr. And then: Billie Holiday, Duke Ellington, Stevie Wonder, and Bob Marley.
Kwaku helped Tilley barter for a work of art. Watching the bartering was most entertaining, similar to an Italian dinner where everyone talks at once. Back to the hotel for a quick jump in the pool, dinner on the porch and rest for our last night here at the Coconut Grove. Tomorrow it is back to Accra!
Tuesday: Bakatue Day
We have made friends with a guide here at the Coconut Grove named Kwaku. Today he took us to the village right next to our hotel to show us how they smoke the fish. The village is set on the ocean down a dirt road and on every side of you are giant piles of wood.Here we were greeted by many children and women and were shown the smoking process. We saw the ovens and layers upon layers of drying racks. After the fish are smoked they are taken to the Volta region to be sold. Again we were amazed by how friendly everyone is as we welcomed into their homes. Kwaku told us yesterday that he could bring us to a Chop Bar, something we have wanted to do since arriving in Ghana. A Chop Bar is a restaurant where the locals eat, but it's not what Americans would call a restaurant. this Chop Bar, which had no name, was located in an alley behind the place where used appliances were being hawked on the sidewalk and spilling out into the street. Kwaku told us to follow him and we blindly did up the uneven dirt path leading behind this dilapidated building. There we found our outdoor restaurant. There was a wall that was lined with various bowls to wash and rinse the dishes. Women were squatting down peeling cooked cassava in a huge bowl while other were taking the pieces of cassava and mashing it with a huge wooden pestle. Then another woman took this mash and kneading it with water and plantains until a fine dough was created. Pieces were broken off and placed in a bowl. We then brought the bowl a few feet over to choose between palm nut soup or light soup. In our soup was a pics of goat meat or fish. Tilley and Senora had the goat and Shema and Kristen had fish. Bridget politely declined both but watched us feast, which was a feat in itself. We ate at tables nearby that had bowl of water, bars of soap, and pitchers of water. after washing our hands, we ate in the traditional Ghanian style, using only our right hand. No forks or spoons were available. Dipping our fingers into hot soup and wrestling meat off the bones while scooping it all up with the fufu is not easy and Tilley made a mess of her last clean shirt, but we all managed to do our guide proud. This lovely meal cost one cedi, fifty pesewas, which is about sixty cents. Then on to the Bakatue Festival.
This festival, a celebration of fishing season, is an annual event in the town of Elmina. Kwaku, who is an Elmina native, dropped us off near the Chief's house where the procession to the harbor would begin. We stood and waited for a bit, popping in and out of small shops and stands as children came running up to us eager to learn our names and have us take their picture. We stopped for a cold Coca-Cola as we waited for the procession to begin. Finally all the chiefs lined up and began to move. Each chief and the Queen mothers were seated on different, ornate sedan chairs thrones and were carried on the heads of four men. The Chiefs and Queen Mothers were decked out in their best clothing and jewelry all the way down to their feet. Groups of people followed behind each Chief or Queen Mother who we assume were family members. The procession concluded with the Head Chief who was wearing all white and smiling and waving as he went. Loud cheers could be heard whenever he appeared. We jumped in Kwaku's car and he drove us to the next stop: the harbor. Upon dropping us off, Kwaku told us to find a seat because it wasn't very crowded yet! It certainly seemed crowded to us! People were everywhere! Announcements were being made on loud speakers about the events, music played, vendors sold their goods and children ran about. We stopped the Fan Milk boy, similar to an ice cream man, ,except it is a boy on a bike with a cooler in front that says "Fan Milk". We each had Fan Ice, which is a plastic bag of vanilla soft serve that you squeeze into your mouth. Mmmmmm it was delicious and perfect for the sweltering heat. They also have Strawberry Frozen Yogurt and frozen Chocolate Milk which will have to try next time! We headed into the big tent filled with tons of people. It was hard to see but in the harbor were regatta races and people cheering. The chiefs all made their way to the harbor for the races but as this point we were all melting and dying to jump into the pool. Kwaku drove us back to the hotel and we threw on our suits and jumped into the pool to cool off. After we cooled off, Senora, Kristen, and Shema were ready to paint the town red. Kwaku picked us up and asked us what we were in the mood to eat. Senora wanted eggs and shema wanted fish so he took us to dinner to meet all our needs. At the sea stop we walked up to a small table out front where a women had a small pan that you can order eggs, vegetables, breads, kanke which is fermented corn. Then we walked across the street to another store front with a grill outside loaded with fresh fish (fresh snapper and tilapia). Amy and I picked out our fish and then we again walked across the street to order Senora's eggs and to try the local sugarcane liquor, Mula. The bar was inside the little store. Through a caged window they served us. They poured with a fork attached to a shot glass a white clear liquid to sample. We were't too crazy about it. We wanted to bring back some for Tilley and Bridget so they filled half a water bottle for three cedi's, approximately $1.80. We went to sit down on a dirt yard at the side of the store but all the tables were full. So, after a few minutes four chairs appeared and were set in a circle. About 5 minutes later a table appears. There are no lights and lots of loud hip light music. Our food was delivered and once again we did not use utensils. Senora wanted to see her food so she took a picture. Kwaku used his cell phone light for Kristen to filet her fish. After dinner we danced a bit and then decided to go to the shell station. We heard many stories that the shell gas station was the place to be. They weren't kidding. The place was hopping! Everyone was dancing. We had a great time. We woke Tilley and Bridget up when we got home to tell them of our great adventure.
This festival, a celebration of fishing season, is an annual event in the town of Elmina. Kwaku, who is an Elmina native, dropped us off near the Chief's house where the procession to the harbor would begin. We stood and waited for a bit, popping in and out of small shops and stands as children came running up to us eager to learn our names and have us take their picture. We stopped for a cold Coca-Cola as we waited for the procession to begin. Finally all the chiefs lined up and began to move. Each chief and the Queen mothers were seated on different, ornate sedan chairs thrones and were carried on the heads of four men. The Chiefs and Queen Mothers were decked out in their best clothing and jewelry all the way down to their feet. Groups of people followed behind each Chief or Queen Mother who we assume were family members. The procession concluded with the Head Chief who was wearing all white and smiling and waving as he went. Loud cheers could be heard whenever he appeared. We jumped in Kwaku's car and he drove us to the next stop: the harbor. Upon dropping us off, Kwaku told us to find a seat because it wasn't very crowded yet! It certainly seemed crowded to us! People were everywhere! Announcements were being made on loud speakers about the events, music played, vendors sold their goods and children ran about. We stopped the Fan Milk boy, similar to an ice cream man, ,except it is a boy on a bike with a cooler in front that says "Fan Milk". We each had Fan Ice, which is a plastic bag of vanilla soft serve that you squeeze into your mouth. Mmmmmm it was delicious and perfect for the sweltering heat. They also have Strawberry Frozen Yogurt and frozen Chocolate Milk which will have to try next time! We headed into the big tent filled with tons of people. It was hard to see but in the harbor were regatta races and people cheering. The chiefs all made their way to the harbor for the races but as this point we were all melting and dying to jump into the pool. Kwaku drove us back to the hotel and we threw on our suits and jumped into the pool to cool off. After we cooled off, Senora, Kristen, and Shema were ready to paint the town red. Kwaku picked us up and asked us what we were in the mood to eat. Senora wanted eggs and shema wanted fish so he took us to dinner to meet all our needs. At the sea stop we walked up to a small table out front where a women had a small pan that you can order eggs, vegetables, breads, kanke which is fermented corn. Then we walked across the street to another store front with a grill outside loaded with fresh fish (fresh snapper and tilapia). Amy and I picked out our fish and then we again walked across the street to order Senora's eggs and to try the local sugarcane liquor, Mula. The bar was inside the little store. Through a caged window they served us. They poured with a fork attached to a shot glass a white clear liquid to sample. We were't too crazy about it. We wanted to bring back some for Tilley and Bridget so they filled half a water bottle for three cedi's, approximately $1.80. We went to sit down on a dirt yard at the side of the store but all the tables were full. So, after a few minutes four chairs appeared and were set in a circle. About 5 minutes later a table appears. There are no lights and lots of loud hip light music. Our food was delivered and once again we did not use utensils. Senora wanted to see her food so she took a picture. Kwaku used his cell phone light for Kristen to filet her fish. After dinner we danced a bit and then decided to go to the shell station. We heard many stories that the shell gas station was the place to be. They weren't kidding. The place was hopping! Everyone was dancing. We had a great time. We woke Tilley and Bridget up when we got home to tell them of our great adventure.
Monday: A Day of Dance
A Day of Dance
Another beautiful day in Ghana. We met our same driver Kwaku and drove to meet a Geneseo professor named Jen who recently married a Ghanaian man named Yahaya. We had arranged to take a dance and drum lesson with the troupe that Yahaya runs. We left Yahaya's shop and headed to the Castle Restaurant which is right next door to the Cape Coast Castle. We found out we would be drumming and dancing outside on a patio in between the two buildings. On our right was the ocean and on the left a street filled with many children eager to watch us learn.Two drummers from the dance troupe patiently taught us some rhythms and let us improvise on their drums. After spending an hour sweating over our drums, a dancer named Philomena took over. She made us take off our shoes and started to lead us in dance. Local children cheered us on as we mastered our moves and they mimicked our dance moves, without even trying. Senora came up with many names for the dance moves in order to help us along, like The Chicken, Windmill, and our favorite, "Don't Punch Your Friend". An hour later, we performed to many pedestrians and onlookers. Ghanaians are so kind and never laugh at you. They think you are wonderful for just trying. We love these people. We were drenched in sweat and sat down with Jen at a local restaurant and had yam balls and pineapple pancakes. Jen then took us shopping in town and introduced us to local snacks, including Obama family cookies. We should add at this point that Ghanaians love Obama. They know more about him and his family than most Americans. I don't think anyone here misses George Bush. The highlight of the day was watching a rehearsal of Yahayas dance troupe, Korye. For two hours, without a break, these young men and women danced tirelessly, as the drummers kept the beat. If they felt the heat, you wouldn't know it although they were dripping with sweat. They were amazing! They had moves that astounded us and it all seemed effortless. All the dancers had smiles on their faces the whole time. Spectators lined the walls of the courtyard, offering encouragement. The young children watching were stepping right along with the dancers and you just know they were dreaming of one day becoming dancers too. Once finished, they invited us to join them and show us our moves that we learned earlier. How wonderful to dance with these young professionals and everyone was impressed. Well, maybe not impressed but they certainly cheered us on. We finished the night eating again in The Castle Restaurant under very little light indulging in Red Red, Rice, Snapper, and beans with Coconut Curry.
Another beautiful day in Ghana. We met our same driver Kwaku and drove to meet a Geneseo professor named Jen who recently married a Ghanaian man named Yahaya. We had arranged to take a dance and drum lesson with the troupe that Yahaya runs. We left Yahaya's shop and headed to the Castle Restaurant which is right next door to the Cape Coast Castle. We found out we would be drumming and dancing outside on a patio in between the two buildings. On our right was the ocean and on the left a street filled with many children eager to watch us learn.Two drummers from the dance troupe patiently taught us some rhythms and let us improvise on their drums. After spending an hour sweating over our drums, a dancer named Philomena took over. She made us take off our shoes and started to lead us in dance. Local children cheered us on as we mastered our moves and they mimicked our dance moves, without even trying. Senora came up with many names for the dance moves in order to help us along, like The Chicken, Windmill, and our favorite, "Don't Punch Your Friend". An hour later, we performed to many pedestrians and onlookers. Ghanaians are so kind and never laugh at you. They think you are wonderful for just trying. We love these people. We were drenched in sweat and sat down with Jen at a local restaurant and had yam balls and pineapple pancakes. Jen then took us shopping in town and introduced us to local snacks, including Obama family cookies. We should add at this point that Ghanaians love Obama. They know more about him and his family than most Americans. I don't think anyone here misses George Bush. The highlight of the day was watching a rehearsal of Yahayas dance troupe, Korye. For two hours, without a break, these young men and women danced tirelessly, as the drummers kept the beat. If they felt the heat, you wouldn't know it although they were dripping with sweat. They were amazing! They had moves that astounded us and it all seemed effortless. All the dancers had smiles on their faces the whole time. Spectators lined the walls of the courtyard, offering encouragement. The young children watching were stepping right along with the dancers and you just know they were dreaming of one day becoming dancers too. Once finished, they invited us to join them and show us our moves that we learned earlier. How wonderful to dance with these young professionals and everyone was impressed. Well, maybe not impressed but they certainly cheered us on. We finished the night eating again in The Castle Restaurant under very little light indulging in Red Red, Rice, Snapper, and beans with Coconut Curry.
Monday, July 4, 2011
A Bird's Eye View
Sunday - a birds eye view
We were the first in the breakfast line as we fortified ourselves for our visit to Kakum National Forest. Our drive through the outskirts of Elmina and Cape Coast lead us past a few prisons. The one that stood out the most was the prison for inmates with communicable diseases and for those with leprosy. Many of the fatal diseases in this area have pharmaceutical cures, such as malaria, but the drugs needed are expensive and/or difficult to acquire.
The highlight of the day was Senora's valiant conquering of the muddy inclines leading to the canopy walk. Kakum offers naturalist guided hikes of the park and our guide, Ben, explained about the uses of trees and shrubs. We were assured that the suspension rope bridges could hold the weight of 2 elephants. The seven bridges spanned across the tree tops and we could cross them 3 people at a time. Not only was the view incredible but there were sweet floral smells, birds singing, and monkeys calling in the distance. Some of then natural remedies included cures for headaches, coughing, stomach aliments, and asthma.
Before returning to Elmina, we took a brief detour to a refuge with "friendly" crocodiles. We each bravely pet a 6 foot crocodile and to our surprise he did not even move. We drove through Cape Coast and stopped at a road side store to pick up provisions for the evening.
Upon returning to the Coconut Grove, Senora and Tilley immediately jumped into the pool to cool off. Storm clouds were brewing in the distance and we could see the rain rolling in. We enjoyed sitting on the front porch watching the waves swell. The temperature dramatically dropped and we decided to stay in, eating pizza and Cheeze-its in our room. Sadly, we missed going to Hi-life dance party at the local Shell Station.
Notices and Wonderings:
Our driver said that over half of the children in Ghana do not know their father.
The large fortresses that line the coast are called "castles" but these buildings are where slaves were held before Middle Passage.
All of the people that we saw in the towns were dressed up for church and some are dressed in matching prints as members if a Church Society.
The Sunday following a funeral is considered Thanksgiving where friends and family gather to honor the deceased and make donations to the family.
Many structures in the countryside are being built but not completed. It was explained to us that people will buy land and build houses when they have money to invest or supplies become available. It may take decades or generation to complete.
In towns, there are deep cuts on the sides of the road that serve as gutters. They are partially covered and Senora is concerned that people and cars fall into them.
Building materials in villages range from cinder blocks, mud, corrugated tin, and today we saw palm leaf fences.
Although it is not explicit, there are gendered roles. For example, in coastal towns, the men fish and the women prepare them for sale and storage.
Much wood is shipped from the interior and piles of wood are stored next to huts to smoke fish.
When we asked any ghanaian what their favorite food is, all answered fufu.
Fish is the most common meat in this area and chicken and beef are significantly more expensive. However, the only pork that is eaten is imported and usually only ate by tourists.
Many people have asked about our families, whether we are married and have children.
We have seen small groups of college students but it is uncommon to have 5 women traveling together.
Mothers carry their child on their backs secured by a single piece of fabric tied around her body. We have yet to see any babies or children crying or fuss. Even young children seem to keep themselves occupied and content with minimal parental attention. It is common to see older siblings caring for younger ones.
Sent from my iPad
We were the first in the breakfast line as we fortified ourselves for our visit to Kakum National Forest. Our drive through the outskirts of Elmina and Cape Coast lead us past a few prisons. The one that stood out the most was the prison for inmates with communicable diseases and for those with leprosy. Many of the fatal diseases in this area have pharmaceutical cures, such as malaria, but the drugs needed are expensive and/or difficult to acquire.
The highlight of the day was Senora's valiant conquering of the muddy inclines leading to the canopy walk. Kakum offers naturalist guided hikes of the park and our guide, Ben, explained about the uses of trees and shrubs. We were assured that the suspension rope bridges could hold the weight of 2 elephants. The seven bridges spanned across the tree tops and we could cross them 3 people at a time. Not only was the view incredible but there were sweet floral smells, birds singing, and monkeys calling in the distance. Some of then natural remedies included cures for headaches, coughing, stomach aliments, and asthma.
Before returning to Elmina, we took a brief detour to a refuge with "friendly" crocodiles. We each bravely pet a 6 foot crocodile and to our surprise he did not even move. We drove through Cape Coast and stopped at a road side store to pick up provisions for the evening.
Upon returning to the Coconut Grove, Senora and Tilley immediately jumped into the pool to cool off. Storm clouds were brewing in the distance and we could see the rain rolling in. We enjoyed sitting on the front porch watching the waves swell. The temperature dramatically dropped and we decided to stay in, eating pizza and Cheeze-its in our room. Sadly, we missed going to Hi-life dance party at the local Shell Station.
Notices and Wonderings:
Our driver said that over half of the children in Ghana do not know their father.
The large fortresses that line the coast are called "castles" but these buildings are where slaves were held before Middle Passage.
All of the people that we saw in the towns were dressed up for church and some are dressed in matching prints as members if a Church Society.
The Sunday following a funeral is considered Thanksgiving where friends and family gather to honor the deceased and make donations to the family.
Many structures in the countryside are being built but not completed. It was explained to us that people will buy land and build houses when they have money to invest or supplies become available. It may take decades or generation to complete.
In towns, there are deep cuts on the sides of the road that serve as gutters. They are partially covered and Senora is concerned that people and cars fall into them.
Building materials in villages range from cinder blocks, mud, corrugated tin, and today we saw palm leaf fences.
Although it is not explicit, there are gendered roles. For example, in coastal towns, the men fish and the women prepare them for sale and storage.
Much wood is shipped from the interior and piles of wood are stored next to huts to smoke fish.
When we asked any ghanaian what their favorite food is, all answered fufu.
Fish is the most common meat in this area and chicken and beef are significantly more expensive. However, the only pork that is eaten is imported and usually only ate by tourists.
Many people have asked about our families, whether we are married and have children.
We have seen small groups of college students but it is uncommon to have 5 women traveling together.
Mothers carry their child on their backs secured by a single piece of fabric tied around her body. We have yet to see any babies or children crying or fuss. Even young children seem to keep themselves occupied and content with minimal parental attention. It is common to see older siblings caring for younger ones.
Sent from my iPad
Sunday, July 3, 2011
On the Road Again and High Life Saturday
Friday July 1st republic day in Ghana. It is a holiday and there are just as many vendors on the street as any other day. Señora called Samuel the cab driver and he was off. She mistakenly called him again and said "I can not drive you today".
We ate breakfast at the Afia and packed our bags. We took a cab to the bus station and the bus was an hour late. Kristen and Bridget had to go to the bathroom. They were supposed to pay but didn't realize it until señora and amy went and said that they paid to use the bathroom. Thank goodness we brought in our own toilet paper is all we have to say.
Finally we departed around two o'clock when we were suppose to leave at 1230. The driver announced in English before we left that we should all say an amen for a safe journey and then repeated the same thing in tre. It was like taking a greyhound bus but it made some unexpected stops and deliveries along the way. We noticed that as deliveries were made men would jump off the bus and relieve themselves. It took us awhile to get out of Accra. It is so congested and busy. We passed the kaneshie market an incredibly busy market that was on the amazing race. Vendors dodged in and out of traffic selling their wares. Yam sellers were especially prevalent and at one point we saw lots of young men selling yams in all three lanes of traffic. It was equivalent to carrying about 12 two liter bottles of soda. Once out in the countryside, we saw such poverty. Village after village with tin shacks, dilapidated homes that words can't even describe. At times, we saw shacks across from breathtaking oceanside.
As we neared Cape Coast, we began to see long wooden boats beached on the shore. Only for a brief moment, we saw dozens of men sliding a new boat down a launch. It was about 20 feet long and 1 man wide. It looked to have been carved from a single tree. We didn't arrive to Coconut Grove until after dark but were impressed with our new lodging.
Before dinner we walked the beach, which was much cleaner than in Accra. Dinner was one of the most delicious yet. We are confident that our stay here will be enjoyable as our busy days are yet to come.
High Life Saturday
Today we were awoken by Nana Ghana yelling at us "If you want to have breakfast you better get up!" and so we got up for our breakfast of eggs, toast, croissants and espresso. And some even dared to have fresh pineapple juice. Bridget is still holding out on the juice! We spent the day relaxing and rejuvenating by the pool for our adventures ahead. We planned our days here in Cape Coast and Shopped with an excellent jeweler named Kojo who sprang up from the beach. Tilley and Señora ventured down the road to Theresa's shop filled with Ghanian crafts. The highlight of our day was dancing to high life music with Ghanian hotel guests amid even received dance lessons from a Ghanian woman. Tilley is a natural high life dancer. She definitely has the moves when it comes to high life and even received a compliment from our dance tutor. It is a beautiful night here on the beach in Cape Coast. We are looking to our adventure at Kakum National Park tomorrow!
We ate breakfast at the Afia and packed our bags. We took a cab to the bus station and the bus was an hour late. Kristen and Bridget had to go to the bathroom. They were supposed to pay but didn't realize it until señora and amy went and said that they paid to use the bathroom. Thank goodness we brought in our own toilet paper is all we have to say.
Finally we departed around two o'clock when we were suppose to leave at 1230. The driver announced in English before we left that we should all say an amen for a safe journey and then repeated the same thing in tre. It was like taking a greyhound bus but it made some unexpected stops and deliveries along the way. We noticed that as deliveries were made men would jump off the bus and relieve themselves. It took us awhile to get out of Accra. It is so congested and busy. We passed the kaneshie market an incredibly busy market that was on the amazing race. Vendors dodged in and out of traffic selling their wares. Yam sellers were especially prevalent and at one point we saw lots of young men selling yams in all three lanes of traffic. It was equivalent to carrying about 12 two liter bottles of soda. Once out in the countryside, we saw such poverty. Village after village with tin shacks, dilapidated homes that words can't even describe. At times, we saw shacks across from breathtaking oceanside.
As we neared Cape Coast, we began to see long wooden boats beached on the shore. Only for a brief moment, we saw dozens of men sliding a new boat down a launch. It was about 20 feet long and 1 man wide. It looked to have been carved from a single tree. We didn't arrive to Coconut Grove until after dark but were impressed with our new lodging.
Before dinner we walked the beach, which was much cleaner than in Accra. Dinner was one of the most delicious yet. We are confident that our stay here will be enjoyable as our busy days are yet to come.
High Life Saturday
Today we were awoken by Nana Ghana yelling at us "If you want to have breakfast you better get up!" and so we got up for our breakfast of eggs, toast, croissants and espresso. And some even dared to have fresh pineapple juice. Bridget is still holding out on the juice! We spent the day relaxing and rejuvenating by the pool for our adventures ahead. We planned our days here in Cape Coast and Shopped with an excellent jeweler named Kojo who sprang up from the beach. Tilley and Señora ventured down the road to Theresa's shop filled with Ghanian crafts. The highlight of our day was dancing to high life music with Ghanian hotel guests amid even received dance lessons from a Ghanian woman. Tilley is a natural high life dancer. She definitely has the moves when it comes to high life and even received a compliment from our dance tutor. It is a beautiful night here on the beach in Cape Coast. We are looking to our adventure at Kakum National Park tomorrow!
Saturday, July 2, 2011
On the Road Again and High Life Saturday
Friday July 1st republic day in Ghana. It is a holiday and there are just as many vendors on the street as any other day. Señora called Samuel the cab driver and he was off. She mistakenly called him again and said "I can not drive you today".
We ate breakfast at the Afia and packed our bags. We took a cab to the bus station and the bus was an hour late. Kristen and Bridget had to go to the bathroom. They were supposed to pay but didn't realize it until señora and amy went and said that they paid to use the bathroom. Thank goodness we brought in our own toilet paper is all we have to say.
Finally we departed around two o'clock when we were suppose to leave at 1230. The driver announced in English before we left that we should all say an amen for a safe journey and then repeated the same thing in tre. It was like taking a greyhound bus but it made some unexpected stops and deliveries along the way. We noticed that as deliveries were made men would jump off the bus and relieve themselves. It took us awhile to get out of Accra. It is so congested and busy. We passed the kaneshie market an incredibly busy market that was on the amazing race. Vendors dodged in and out of traffic selling their wares. Yam sellers were especially prevalent and at one point we saw lots of young men selling yams in all three lanes of traffic. It was equivalent to carrying about 12 two liter bottles of soda. Once out in the countryside, we saw such poverty. Village after village with tin shacks, dilapidated homes that words can't even describe. At times, we saw shacks across from breathtaking oceanside.
As we neared Cape Coast, we began to see long wooden boats beached on the shore. Only for a brief moment, we saw dozens of men sliding a new boat down a launch. It was about 20 feet long and 1 man wide. It looked to have been carved from a single tree. We didn't arrive to Coconut Grove until after dark but were impressed with our new lodging.
Before dinner we walked the beach, which was much cleaner than in Accra. Dinner was one of the most delicious yet. We are confident that our stay here will be enjoyable as our busy days are yet to come.
High Life Saturday
Today we were awoken by Nana Ghana yelling at us "If you want to have breakfast you better get up!" and so we got up for our breakfast of eggs, toast, croissants and espresso. And some even dared to have fresh pineapple juice. Bridget is still holding out on the juice! We spent the day relaxing and rejuvenating by the pool for our adventures ahead. We planned our days here in Cape Coast and Shopped with an excellent jeweler named Kojo who sprang up from the beach. Tilley and Señora ventured down the road to Theresa's shop filled with Ghanian crafts. The highlight of our day was dancing to high life music with Ghanian hotel guests amid even received dance lessons from a Ghanian woman. Tilley is a natural high life dancer. She definitely has the moves when it comes to high life and even received a compliment from our dance tutor. It is a beautiful night here on the beach in Cape Coast. We are looking to our adventure at Kakum National Park tomorrow!
We ate breakfast at the Afia and packed our bags. We took a cab to the bus station and the bus was an hour late. Kristen and Bridget had to go to the bathroom. They were supposed to pay but didn't realize it until señora and amy went and said that they paid to use the bathroom. Thank goodness we brought in our own toilet paper is all we have to say.
Finally we departed around two o'clock when we were suppose to leave at 1230. The driver announced in English before we left that we should all say an amen for a safe journey and then repeated the same thing in tre. It was like taking a greyhound bus but it made some unexpected stops and deliveries along the way. We noticed that as deliveries were made men would jump off the bus and relieve themselves. It took us awhile to get out of Accra. It is so congested and busy. We passed the kaneshie market an incredibly busy market that was on the amazing race. Vendors dodged in and out of traffic selling their wares. Yam sellers were especially prevalent and at one point we saw lots of young men selling yams in all three lanes of traffic. It was equivalent to carrying about 12 two liter bottles of soda. Once out in the countryside, we saw such poverty. Village after village with tin shacks, dilapidated homes that words can't even describe. At times, we saw shacks across from breathtaking oceanside.
As we neared Cape Coast, we began to see long wooden boats beached on the shore. Only for a brief moment, we saw dozens of men sliding a new boat down a launch. It was about 20 feet long and 1 man wide. It looked to have been carved from a single tree. We didn't arrive to Coconut Grove until after dark but were impressed with our new lodging.
Before dinner we walked the beach, which was much cleaner than in Accra. Dinner was one of the most delicious yet. We are confident that our stay here will be enjoyable as our busy days are yet to come.
High Life Saturday
Today we were awoken by Nana Ghana yelling at us "If you want to have breakfast you better get up!" and so we got up for our breakfast of eggs, toast, croissants and espresso. And some even dared to have fresh pineapple juice. Bridget is still holding out on the juice! We spent the day relaxing and rejuvenating by the pool for our adventures ahead. We planned our days here in Cape Coast and Shopped with an excellent jeweler named Kojo who sprang up from the beach. Tilley and Señora ventured down the road to Theresa's shop filled with Ghanian crafts. The highlight of our day was dancing to high life music with Ghanian hotel guests amid even received dance lessons from a Ghanian woman. Tilley is a natural high life dancer. She definitely has the moves when it comes to high life and even received a compliment from our dance tutor. It is a beautiful night here on the beach in Cape Coast. We are looking to our adventure at Kakum National Park tomorrow!
Thursday, June 30, 2011
Throw Caution to the Wind
Thursday
The alarm went off at 8 am. Senora was already up and about. Senora and Lisa decided to throw caution the wind and drink fresh pineapple juice. No signs of ill affect. Kristen, Bridget, and Shema joined the others and we planned out the day. We decided that we needed to go to the bus depot and buy tickets for tomorrow's trip to cape coast. Fortunately Kojo was our drive and thoroughly entertained by the Ghana girls. We exited the taxi on the side of the road with the intent of taking a tro tro to the Makola market. We could not find a tro tro to take us to the market, so Senora and Bridget found a taxi and Lisa, kristen and Shema walked the rest of the way. The walk to the market was an experience to remember. We first crossed a bridge that spanned a river that was actually full of garbage. People were scavenging through the refuse looking for anything usable. The sewers were filled with a rancid sludge that emitted a noxious odor. People were sitting under trees and selling everything from watches to bananas. On the hill were tin roofed shacks for as far as we could see. We are confident that this was not the neighborhood most tourists see. This was our first exposure to the extreme poverty that plagues third world countries. Yet not half a mile away is a banking center and gas stations on the corner (1.65 CED/ litre).
Once we finally met up at the Makola market we agreed to stay together and meet at intersections in case we separated. The main street of the market made China town look like a well organized and reserved neighborhood. There were women lining the street selling a range of items beyond our imagination. The first surprise were the cow feet that were on low tables. When one was purchased, the vendor would hack them into pieces with a machete on the pavement.
Shema had to call Kristen over to see the enormous snails. The shells were easily as big as a softball. They were gliding along a large platter and Kristen asked if she could take a picture. After she took it, the vendor wanted 20 cedes. No, just a joke. We continued down the street and found a cloth vendor. We stopped to let Senora sit under an awning and Lisa learned about local soap. It's not for the body, but a face soap to clear blemished, to which the woman pointed to lisa's age spots on her arm.
Shema decided to stop and look at cloth. Fortunately we had a woman who was eager to sell and help her with a head wrap; she did receive many subsequent compliments. After a dozen or so yards later between head wrap and material for our maestros at morning meeting, we continued along the blocks. We did stop for more fabric, to which Bridget was in direct sunlight wondering at what point #50 sunscreen is no longer effective.
It was time to leave and go back to our more familiar market at the cultural center. We entered the market to grand welcome. "Ah, the Americans are here. Welcome friends!". After a cool reprieve, we met up with our drum friend, David. We didn't leave the market for a few hours; only after meeting Colin Powell who knew facts about each state, a welcoming drum circle from david and his drummers, and being reunited with our long lost "friends".
Our dinner destination was the only Italian restaurant in Accra, an homage to Bridget's grandmother. In true American fashion, we arrived an hour before Mama Mia's opened and sat ourselves at an empty table. After the restaurant filled with obruni (white people), and a cold Star, we ordered dinner. Admittedly, these pizzas could rival those at home.
This would be a good time to try and explain driving in Accra. Kojo assured us that a drivers license is required, however we have our doubts. Although there are lanes and stop lights, drivers seem to make up their own rules. There are three main vehicle types; taxis, tro tros, and motor bikes, none of which would pass inspection inn NY. The horn is used liberally for various reasons. While there may be two lanes of traffic, there will be at least 4 cars across, a motorcycle rolling in between, and vendors weaving through the cars. The vendors carry sundries at top their heads in wide aluminum bowls. One can buy anything from chips to dog leashes (of which Senora was offered and she explained that she doesn't have a dog). Seat belts are optional as are turn signals. Cars pass so closely together that hitting a neighbors mirror is common place. Drivers inch into traffic with no regard to oncoming traffic. The up-side to this mode of transportation is that you negotiate the fare before you depart and aren't charged extra for traffic. With the exception of our drive this evening, we have had good luck with taxis.
Our next destination was the Labadi Beach Hotel. Senora insisted that reggae night at the beach was on Thursday night. Much to our insistence and her chagrin, senora sadly learned that reggae night was on Wednesday. The drive to the Labadi Hotel was well worth it for no reason other than having filtered ice (or so they said). You would have thought it was the last day of school to see the grin fixed on Senora's face. We eagerly treated ourselves to frosty libations that were well worth the premium prices. The other option would be to stay at the Labadi Hotel at $1000 per night which was a little beyond our budget.
Considering we spent our cedis at the Labadi, we decided to bargain with the cab driver. We knew that we shouldn't pay more than 10 cedis to get back to the Afia,and walked away when he only went to 15. So with a short walk across the median and after hailing a taxi, Senora gave direction back home.
When we finally made it back to the Afia, the desk clerk was impressed at our learning curve. He said, "Yesterday, you called to get picked up because you were lost, and now you give direction. That's very good!" Sometimes we even surprise ourselves.
The alarm went off at 8 am. Senora was already up and about. Senora and Lisa decided to throw caution the wind and drink fresh pineapple juice. No signs of ill affect. Kristen, Bridget, and Shema joined the others and we planned out the day. We decided that we needed to go to the bus depot and buy tickets for tomorrow's trip to cape coast. Fortunately Kojo was our drive and thoroughly entertained by the Ghana girls. We exited the taxi on the side of the road with the intent of taking a tro tro to the Makola market. We could not find a tro tro to take us to the market, so Senora and Bridget found a taxi and Lisa, kristen and Shema walked the rest of the way. The walk to the market was an experience to remember. We first crossed a bridge that spanned a river that was actually full of garbage. People were scavenging through the refuse looking for anything usable. The sewers were filled with a rancid sludge that emitted a noxious odor. People were sitting under trees and selling everything from watches to bananas. On the hill were tin roofed shacks for as far as we could see. We are confident that this was not the neighborhood most tourists see. This was our first exposure to the extreme poverty that plagues third world countries. Yet not half a mile away is a banking center and gas stations on the corner (1.65 CED/ litre).
Once we finally met up at the Makola market we agreed to stay together and meet at intersections in case we separated. The main street of the market made China town look like a well organized and reserved neighborhood. There were women lining the street selling a range of items beyond our imagination. The first surprise were the cow feet that were on low tables. When one was purchased, the vendor would hack them into pieces with a machete on the pavement.
Shema had to call Kristen over to see the enormous snails. The shells were easily as big as a softball. They were gliding along a large platter and Kristen asked if she could take a picture. After she took it, the vendor wanted 20 cedes. No, just a joke. We continued down the street and found a cloth vendor. We stopped to let Senora sit under an awning and Lisa learned about local soap. It's not for the body, but a face soap to clear blemished, to which the woman pointed to lisa's age spots on her arm.
Shema decided to stop and look at cloth. Fortunately we had a woman who was eager to sell and help her with a head wrap; she did receive many subsequent compliments. After a dozen or so yards later between head wrap and material for our maestros at morning meeting, we continued along the blocks. We did stop for more fabric, to which Bridget was in direct sunlight wondering at what point #50 sunscreen is no longer effective.
It was time to leave and go back to our more familiar market at the cultural center. We entered the market to grand welcome. "Ah, the Americans are here. Welcome friends!". After a cool reprieve, we met up with our drum friend, David. We didn't leave the market for a few hours; only after meeting Colin Powell who knew facts about each state, a welcoming drum circle from david and his drummers, and being reunited with our long lost "friends".
Our dinner destination was the only Italian restaurant in Accra, an homage to Bridget's grandmother. In true American fashion, we arrived an hour before Mama Mia's opened and sat ourselves at an empty table. After the restaurant filled with obruni (white people), and a cold Star, we ordered dinner. Admittedly, these pizzas could rival those at home.
This would be a good time to try and explain driving in Accra. Kojo assured us that a drivers license is required, however we have our doubts. Although there are lanes and stop lights, drivers seem to make up their own rules. There are three main vehicle types; taxis, tro tros, and motor bikes, none of which would pass inspection inn NY. The horn is used liberally for various reasons. While there may be two lanes of traffic, there will be at least 4 cars across, a motorcycle rolling in between, and vendors weaving through the cars. The vendors carry sundries at top their heads in wide aluminum bowls. One can buy anything from chips to dog leashes (of which Senora was offered and she explained that she doesn't have a dog). Seat belts are optional as are turn signals. Cars pass so closely together that hitting a neighbors mirror is common place. Drivers inch into traffic with no regard to oncoming traffic. The up-side to this mode of transportation is that you negotiate the fare before you depart and aren't charged extra for traffic. With the exception of our drive this evening, we have had good luck with taxis.
Our next destination was the Labadi Beach Hotel. Senora insisted that reggae night at the beach was on Thursday night. Much to our insistence and her chagrin, senora sadly learned that reggae night was on Wednesday. The drive to the Labadi Hotel was well worth it for no reason other than having filtered ice (or so they said). You would have thought it was the last day of school to see the grin fixed on Senora's face. We eagerly treated ourselves to frosty libations that were well worth the premium prices. The other option would be to stay at the Labadi Hotel at $1000 per night which was a little beyond our budget.
Considering we spent our cedis at the Labadi, we decided to bargain with the cab driver. We knew that we shouldn't pay more than 10 cedis to get back to the Afia,and walked away when he only went to 15. So with a short walk across the median and after hailing a taxi, Senora gave direction back home.
When we finally made it back to the Afia, the desk clerk was impressed at our learning curve. He said, "Yesterday, you called to get picked up because you were lost, and now you give direction. That's very good!" Sometimes we even surprise ourselves.
Shake Your Groove Thing
Today, Senora and Kristen met in the lobby at 6 am because they could't sleep. We watched the hard workers clean the lobby. Tilley joined us at about 8 o'clock thinking that it was 9 am. Bridget and Shema were in the room panicking thinking it was 9 am also and we had to be at our lessons at 10 am. Senora called the night before for an 8 pm wake up call but neglected to tell the receptionist what room we were in. She said that they have a computer at the desk so that they should know. Well, we did not receive a wake up call and they do not have a computer. We called our trusty driver Samuel to take us to near the American Embassy where we would take our drum and dance lessons. We were to meet near a big tree by a concrete wall. What an adventure. Thank God it was a cloudy day or else we would have died. Gifty, the dancer and Nii the drummer met us and bravely proceeded to be our teachers. The dance we learned was a traditional Accra dance using the Ga language. It was hilarious to see us try to mimic beautiful Gifty. She moved with such ease and fluidity and we moved like middle age white women. Once we mastered the dance we moved into learning the drums. After finally learning how to call and respond, Nii taught us the introduction and an ostinato pattern for the dance movements. After practicing for nearly an hour it was time to put it all together. Senora and Tilley took the drum parts along with Nii and Kristen, Amy, Bridget and Gifty busted a move. Don't worry this part is all on video soon to be on Facebook. You have to see it to believe it! Lunch was at Roots Restaurant on a lovely patio under the trees. Bridget and Kristen got their pizza fix. Shema and Senora had red red, a bean and chili dish and Tilley was brave with her paw paw in light goat soup, eaten Ghana style with her hands. We then set out on foot to find a bank a few blocks away. An hour later we were still walking and looking for the elusive bank. Senora gave up and found a chair in the shade and made friends with some locals. We finally called Samuel to save us and he drove us to a bank where we replenished our funds. Home at last to a well deserved nap.
Noticing and wonderings.......
It is very rare to spot someone over the age of 50
The sun sets at 6 pm
All the school kids wear uniforms
Everyone is extremely friendly
As we walk many we turn many heads
Every taxi beeps at us
No purses or backpacks, everything is carried on their heads
We have not seen anyone smoking ( the call tabacco a narcotic)
Beach front property really doesn't mean anything. Nobody uses it.
The tro tro is always full
Everyone speaks English and their tribal language
Lizards meet us for breakfast every morning
All school girls have short hair
We have heard mostly American music in restaurants and bars
How much do the ladies that carry babanas on their heads make in one day.
Who lives behind the big houses with walls and barbed wire and what do they do?
How do the men wear long sleeves and suit coats and they don't even look hot.
Tilley, Bridget, and burg went for a walk on the beach after we posted our noticing and wonderings. We ran into a Ghanaian who was working out on the beach. He came running up to us and asked Bridget to take a picture with his phone with Kristen. His name was Sunday and he was training for soccer. We walked along the beach and were amazed at how much trash was washed up on the beach. After our walk we took a shower and decided to go out to dinner at Ryan's Irish pub. We took a cab there and wow this was an experience. We were close to hitting a cart that was being pulled in the middle of the road. We are really not sure what our driver could actually see because his windshield was cracked foggy and filthy. We were dropped off in OSU and we had to look for Ryan's Irish pub. We ended up eating there and we found out from the owner that it is the only Irish pub in west Africa. It was very pricy but had the best bathroom that we have Used in accra. There were chocolate bars (twix, snickers) on the menu; however none were actually available. We shared Fish and Chips and Cottage Pie aka Shepherds Pie. Both were delicious but crazy expensive. We also shared Sticky Toffee Pudding, which was also tasty. After all visited the bathroom we left the restaurant, and ran into a taxi who wanted 6 cedi to drive us home,we are learning to negotiate and told him Kwame only charged us 4 cedi. We don't know who Kwame is. Haha. He accepted and drove us home only going 5 mph the whole time. We learned tips for getting to Cape Coast on Friday and learned his name is Foster. We are now back watching videos of our dance skills and having some more Star while Señora cuddles with Tilley and her socks. Sweet Dreams!
The Ghana Girls :-)
Check out our drumming and dancing video
http://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=JWhL10N4RcE&feature=YouTube_gdata_player.
Noticing and wonderings.......
It is very rare to spot someone over the age of 50
The sun sets at 6 pm
All the school kids wear uniforms
Everyone is extremely friendly
As we walk many we turn many heads
Every taxi beeps at us
No purses or backpacks, everything is carried on their heads
We have not seen anyone smoking ( the call tabacco a narcotic)
Beach front property really doesn't mean anything. Nobody uses it.
The tro tro is always full
Everyone speaks English and their tribal language
Lizards meet us for breakfast every morning
All school girls have short hair
We have heard mostly American music in restaurants and bars
How much do the ladies that carry babanas on their heads make in one day.
Who lives behind the big houses with walls and barbed wire and what do they do?
How do the men wear long sleeves and suit coats and they don't even look hot.
Tilley, Bridget, and burg went for a walk on the beach after we posted our noticing and wonderings. We ran into a Ghanaian who was working out on the beach. He came running up to us and asked Bridget to take a picture with his phone with Kristen. His name was Sunday and he was training for soccer. We walked along the beach and were amazed at how much trash was washed up on the beach. After our walk we took a shower and decided to go out to dinner at Ryan's Irish pub. We took a cab there and wow this was an experience. We were close to hitting a cart that was being pulled in the middle of the road. We are really not sure what our driver could actually see because his windshield was cracked foggy and filthy. We were dropped off in OSU and we had to look for Ryan's Irish pub. We ended up eating there and we found out from the owner that it is the only Irish pub in west Africa. It was very pricy but had the best bathroom that we have Used in accra. There were chocolate bars (twix, snickers) on the menu; however none were actually available. We shared Fish and Chips and Cottage Pie aka Shepherds Pie. Both were delicious but crazy expensive. We also shared Sticky Toffee Pudding, which was also tasty. After all visited the bathroom we left the restaurant, and ran into a taxi who wanted 6 cedi to drive us home,we are learning to negotiate and told him Kwame only charged us 4 cedi. We don't know who Kwame is. Haha. He accepted and drove us home only going 5 mph the whole time. We learned tips for getting to Cape Coast on Friday and learned his name is Foster. We are now back watching videos of our dance skills and having some more Star while Señora cuddles with Tilley and her socks. Sweet Dreams!
The Ghana Girls :-)
Check out our drumming and dancing video
http://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=JWhL10N4RcE&feature=YouTube_gdata_player.
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
Obama Country
We are starting to just tell people we are from Obama country because everyone here loves Obama and the minute you say US they get so excited and say ohhh Obama Country!
Monday after breakfast/lunch we got in a taxi to go the Accra mall to buy Sim cards, get money from ATMs and some groceries. We stopped at some local shops on the street and saw people selling tons of shoes, someone grilling cow intestines, and some entertaining signs on vans. We went to Shop Rite and bought bottled water, snacks and beer. Amy, Kristen and I took a cab back to the hotel while Señora and Lisa left to explore taking a tro tro. A tro tro is a very crowded van that for very cheap drops you off places. They finally made it back to the hotel much later than us and we all found out it gets dark here around 6pm. Señora and Lisa apparently found a local market, the cultural center...where they met many people who sang for them, took them places and Rosemary even gave them a necklace. Once all back at the hotel we ate at the Tribes restaurant again. We each fish, banku, akrokro, beans, and Star beer which is very tasty. Everything was great.
We actually slept until around 10am today. I guess we are still tired. We got up and had coffee and free toast for breakfast and then followed Lisa and señora to the market they went to. What an experience this was! The minute you get there people want to pull you in every direction and show you their store and good. They say no pressure but they don't mean it. It was hot and sweaty and Amy was told she looked like a sweating pregnant fish....this is apparently not an insult. People played drums for us, dragged us all around. We each bout our share of things. Kristen Amy and I met David who makes drums, he gave us a free drum lesson and showed us his drums which he can engage especially for us. We will definitely be going back to David since he really helped us out. I made friend with Moses who showed me this instrument that is two shakers tied together by a string....they are so fun to play with and learn...I bought a set and have been entertaining myself. I know my lunch bunch will love to play with them. We saw beautiful paintings, baskets, jewelry, etc. We met señora dn Lisa back at the hotel, rested for a few then got in a cab to go to Osu. In Osu we ate at Country Kitchen, reccommended by Nadae's mom Melissa. It was delicious, here we had Fufu, ground nut soup, chicken, fish (all the fish has skin, and eyes and lots of bones) then we walked Osu, found a dress maker named Esther, visited Global Mamas and set up our dance class for tomorrow. Three hours of drumming and dance at 10am tomorrow. We made friends with an artist named Alex and he had a beer with us at a bar and told us about cooking foods here.Señora is now known as Nana...as in grandma and often refers to herself as Nana in the 3rd person. We just piled 5 of us in a cab and are now back at the Afia. I know we have many more stories to tell that I am forgetting. We will make sure to add them in. We miss everyone at home. I know you all can't wait to hear aBout us dancing and drumming tomorrow!
Bridget :-)
Monday after breakfast/lunch we got in a taxi to go the Accra mall to buy Sim cards, get money from ATMs and some groceries. We stopped at some local shops on the street and saw people selling tons of shoes, someone grilling cow intestines, and some entertaining signs on vans. We went to Shop Rite and bought bottled water, snacks and beer. Amy, Kristen and I took a cab back to the hotel while Señora and Lisa left to explore taking a tro tro. A tro tro is a very crowded van that for very cheap drops you off places. They finally made it back to the hotel much later than us and we all found out it gets dark here around 6pm. Señora and Lisa apparently found a local market, the cultural center...where they met many people who sang for them, took them places and Rosemary even gave them a necklace. Once all back at the hotel we ate at the Tribes restaurant again. We each fish, banku, akrokro, beans, and Star beer which is very tasty. Everything was great.
We actually slept until around 10am today. I guess we are still tired. We got up and had coffee and free toast for breakfast and then followed Lisa and señora to the market they went to. What an experience this was! The minute you get there people want to pull you in every direction and show you their store and good. They say no pressure but they don't mean it. It was hot and sweaty and Amy was told she looked like a sweating pregnant fish....this is apparently not an insult. People played drums for us, dragged us all around. We each bout our share of things. Kristen Amy and I met David who makes drums, he gave us a free drum lesson and showed us his drums which he can engage especially for us. We will definitely be going back to David since he really helped us out. I made friend with Moses who showed me this instrument that is two shakers tied together by a string....they are so fun to play with and learn...I bought a set and have been entertaining myself. I know my lunch bunch will love to play with them. We saw beautiful paintings, baskets, jewelry, etc. We met señora dn Lisa back at the hotel, rested for a few then got in a cab to go to Osu. In Osu we ate at Country Kitchen, reccommended by Nadae's mom Melissa. It was delicious, here we had Fufu, ground nut soup, chicken, fish (all the fish has skin, and eyes and lots of bones) then we walked Osu, found a dress maker named Esther, visited Global Mamas and set up our dance class for tomorrow. Three hours of drumming and dance at 10am tomorrow. We made friends with an artist named Alex and he had a beer with us at a bar and told us about cooking foods here.Señora is now known as Nana...as in grandma and often refers to herself as Nana in the 3rd person. We just piled 5 of us in a cab and are now back at the Afia. I know we have many more stories to tell that I am forgetting. We will make sure to add them in. We miss everyone at home. I know you all can't wait to hear aBout us dancing and drumming tomorrow!
Bridget :-)
Monday, June 27, 2011
We are Here!
Kristen and I met at Señora's house on Saturday night around 8:30 and we loaded up the van and headed off to pick up Amy and Lisa from their houses. After smashing all the luggage in the van we headed for NYC/JFK. Stopped at a trucker diner in Binghampton to go to the bathroom and Kristen was craving fried food so we ordered mozzarella sticks to go....hahaha. Tilley took over as the driver and drove at least 10 miles slower than the speed limit and turned on the heat and sweated us all out. We arrived at JFK around 4am Sunday morning to a completely empty airport, lights off and everything. Luckily it was open so we could unload and sit inside. Finally around 7am we got in line to check in...the theme of the trip so far is standing in ridiculously long lines. 7 and a half hour flight filled with children, literally half the plane was screaming running children. One whom Amy made friends with and was going to adopt....we had to hold her back. We had two meals on the plane and landed in Casablanca at 9 pm there time. We tried to get a drink at a bar, but they would only take Euros so we couldn't have anything! Finally boarded a plane for Accra at midnight for a 4 hour flight....we weren't prepared for that...thought it was only a little over two...oops. This flight was more empty so we could spread out. We landed in Accra around 4am here....got through customs with no problems, got our luggage, found the man with my name on a board. When attempting to load two cars with us, many men tried to fight over taking us in their van rather than two cars! It was entertaining. At The Afia Beach Hotel the security guard let us in our room, which was very hot due to the air not being on yet. He turned everything on for us...but there was no extra bed for Amy. We had a double, two singles and two bathrooms. So Tilley and Amy cuddled in a single! We slept for 7 hours waking up around noon....got ready, visited the beach...beautiful, wavy and windy and are now sitting in the Tribes Restaurant waiting for our first meal.Just saw a beautifully colored lizard and Señora and Lisa took 20 pictures of it so Widmaier if you are reading this....the pics are for you! The food is here...gotta go!
Sunday, June 19, 2011
One Week to go...
Alright it is definitely time to get this blog started! In one week the Ghana Girls will be on a plane headed to Accra,Ghana! Here is a breakdown on this fabolous opportunity:
* For those who do not know us: We are four special subject teachers at World of Inquiry School #58 in Rochester, NY. Kristen teaches Physical Education, Lisa is our Librarian/Media Specialist, Cathy aka Señora teaches K-6th grade Spanish and I teach 4th-8th grade Instrumental Music and 7th grade General Music.
* Kristen, Lisa, Señora and I applied for a grant through Fund For Teachers in January. Our proposal was to study the fusion of music, drumming and dance in Ghana. The proposal was accepted in March and we received the full amount for $10,000.
* Shortly after receiving the grant, we booked our flights. We fly out of JFK on Sunday June 26 at 8am to Casablanca, Morocco and from there to Accra, Ghana. We land in Ghana on Monday June 27 at 3:30am. We return to JFK on Monday July 11. The flights cost nearly $1700 a person.
* Another teacher from WOIS, Amy is also traveling with us. She just couldn't pass up the opportunity!
* We have two hotels booked, one in Accra when we first arrive from June 27-July 1: The Afia African Village and one from July 1-6 in Cape Coast: The Coconut Grove Beach Resort. We left the last leg of the trip open so we can decide what we want to do after being there for awhile.
* We will be taking classes through Global Mamas on drumming, dance, cooking, etc. As well as traveling to The castles used during the slave trade, Kakum National Park, and much more.
* We have been busy researching Ghana, and shopping for light weight clothes, shoes, and supplies.
This is our last week of school, so we will be busy with exams, the Elementary Talent Show, 25 Book Campaign BBQ, Kindergarten and 6th grade moving up ceremonies and not to mention packing! And then Saturday night we will load up Señora's van and head to NYC! We cannot wait!
Until next time,
Bridget :-)
* For those who do not know us: We are four special subject teachers at World of Inquiry School #58 in Rochester, NY. Kristen teaches Physical Education, Lisa is our Librarian/Media Specialist, Cathy aka Señora teaches K-6th grade Spanish and I teach 4th-8th grade Instrumental Music and 7th grade General Music.
* Kristen, Lisa, Señora and I applied for a grant through Fund For Teachers in January. Our proposal was to study the fusion of music, drumming and dance in Ghana. The proposal was accepted in March and we received the full amount for $10,000.
* Shortly after receiving the grant, we booked our flights. We fly out of JFK on Sunday June 26 at 8am to Casablanca, Morocco and from there to Accra, Ghana. We land in Ghana on Monday June 27 at 3:30am. We return to JFK on Monday July 11. The flights cost nearly $1700 a person.
* Another teacher from WOIS, Amy is also traveling with us. She just couldn't pass up the opportunity!
* We have two hotels booked, one in Accra when we first arrive from June 27-July 1: The Afia African Village and one from July 1-6 in Cape Coast: The Coconut Grove Beach Resort. We left the last leg of the trip open so we can decide what we want to do after being there for awhile.
* We will be taking classes through Global Mamas on drumming, dance, cooking, etc. As well as traveling to The castles used during the slave trade, Kakum National Park, and much more.
* We have been busy researching Ghana, and shopping for light weight clothes, shoes, and supplies.
This is our last week of school, so we will be busy with exams, the Elementary Talent Show, 25 Book Campaign BBQ, Kindergarten and 6th grade moving up ceremonies and not to mention packing! And then Saturday night we will load up Señora's van and head to NYC! We cannot wait!
Until next time,
Bridget :-)
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