Thursday
The alarm went off at 8 am. Senora was already up and about. Senora and Lisa decided to throw caution the wind and drink fresh pineapple juice. No signs of ill affect. Kristen, Bridget, and Shema joined the others and we planned out the day. We decided that we needed to go to the bus depot and buy tickets for tomorrow's trip to cape coast. Fortunately Kojo was our drive and thoroughly entertained by the Ghana girls. We exited the taxi on the side of the road with the intent of taking a tro tro to the Makola market. We could not find a tro tro to take us to the market, so Senora and Bridget found a taxi and Lisa, kristen and Shema walked the rest of the way. The walk to the market was an experience to remember. We first crossed a bridge that spanned a river that was actually full of garbage. People were scavenging through the refuse looking for anything usable. The sewers were filled with a rancid sludge that emitted a noxious odor. People were sitting under trees and selling everything from watches to bananas. On the hill were tin roofed shacks for as far as we could see. We are confident that this was not the neighborhood most tourists see. This was our first exposure to the extreme poverty that plagues third world countries. Yet not half a mile away is a banking center and gas stations on the corner (1.65 CED/ litre).
Once we finally met up at the Makola market we agreed to stay together and meet at intersections in case we separated. The main street of the market made China town look like a well organized and reserved neighborhood. There were women lining the street selling a range of items beyond our imagination. The first surprise were the cow feet that were on low tables. When one was purchased, the vendor would hack them into pieces with a machete on the pavement.
Shema had to call Kristen over to see the enormous snails. The shells were easily as big as a softball. They were gliding along a large platter and Kristen asked if she could take a picture. After she took it, the vendor wanted 20 cedes. No, just a joke. We continued down the street and found a cloth vendor. We stopped to let Senora sit under an awning and Lisa learned about local soap. It's not for the body, but a face soap to clear blemished, to which the woman pointed to lisa's age spots on her arm.
Shema decided to stop and look at cloth. Fortunately we had a woman who was eager to sell and help her with a head wrap; she did receive many subsequent compliments. After a dozen or so yards later between head wrap and material for our maestros at morning meeting, we continued along the blocks. We did stop for more fabric, to which Bridget was in direct sunlight wondering at what point #50 sunscreen is no longer effective.
It was time to leave and go back to our more familiar market at the cultural center. We entered the market to grand welcome. "Ah, the Americans are here. Welcome friends!". After a cool reprieve, we met up with our drum friend, David. We didn't leave the market for a few hours; only after meeting Colin Powell who knew facts about each state, a welcoming drum circle from david and his drummers, and being reunited with our long lost "friends".
Our dinner destination was the only Italian restaurant in Accra, an homage to Bridget's grandmother. In true American fashion, we arrived an hour before Mama Mia's opened and sat ourselves at an empty table. After the restaurant filled with obruni (white people), and a cold Star, we ordered dinner. Admittedly, these pizzas could rival those at home.
This would be a good time to try and explain driving in Accra. Kojo assured us that a drivers license is required, however we have our doubts. Although there are lanes and stop lights, drivers seem to make up their own rules. There are three main vehicle types; taxis, tro tros, and motor bikes, none of which would pass inspection inn NY. The horn is used liberally for various reasons. While there may be two lanes of traffic, there will be at least 4 cars across, a motorcycle rolling in between, and vendors weaving through the cars. The vendors carry sundries at top their heads in wide aluminum bowls. One can buy anything from chips to dog leashes (of which Senora was offered and she explained that she doesn't have a dog). Seat belts are optional as are turn signals. Cars pass so closely together that hitting a neighbors mirror is common place. Drivers inch into traffic with no regard to oncoming traffic. The up-side to this mode of transportation is that you negotiate the fare before you depart and aren't charged extra for traffic. With the exception of our drive this evening, we have had good luck with taxis.
Our next destination was the Labadi Beach Hotel. Senora insisted that reggae night at the beach was on Thursday night. Much to our insistence and her chagrin, senora sadly learned that reggae night was on Wednesday. The drive to the Labadi Hotel was well worth it for no reason other than having filtered ice (or so they said). You would have thought it was the last day of school to see the grin fixed on Senora's face. We eagerly treated ourselves to frosty libations that were well worth the premium prices. The other option would be to stay at the Labadi Hotel at $1000 per night which was a little beyond our budget.
Considering we spent our cedis at the Labadi, we decided to bargain with the cab driver. We knew that we shouldn't pay more than 10 cedis to get back to the Afia,and walked away when he only went to 15. So with a short walk across the median and after hailing a taxi, Senora gave direction back home.
When we finally made it back to the Afia, the desk clerk was impressed at our learning curve. He said, "Yesterday, you called to get picked up because you were lost, and now you give direction. That's very good!" Sometimes we even surprise ourselves.
Thursday, June 30, 2011
Shake Your Groove Thing
Today, Senora and Kristen met in the lobby at 6 am because they could't sleep. We watched the hard workers clean the lobby. Tilley joined us at about 8 o'clock thinking that it was 9 am. Bridget and Shema were in the room panicking thinking it was 9 am also and we had to be at our lessons at 10 am. Senora called the night before for an 8 pm wake up call but neglected to tell the receptionist what room we were in. She said that they have a computer at the desk so that they should know. Well, we did not receive a wake up call and they do not have a computer. We called our trusty driver Samuel to take us to near the American Embassy where we would take our drum and dance lessons. We were to meet near a big tree by a concrete wall. What an adventure. Thank God it was a cloudy day or else we would have died. Gifty, the dancer and Nii the drummer met us and bravely proceeded to be our teachers. The dance we learned was a traditional Accra dance using the Ga language. It was hilarious to see us try to mimic beautiful Gifty. She moved with such ease and fluidity and we moved like middle age white women. Once we mastered the dance we moved into learning the drums. After finally learning how to call and respond, Nii taught us the introduction and an ostinato pattern for the dance movements. After practicing for nearly an hour it was time to put it all together. Senora and Tilley took the drum parts along with Nii and Kristen, Amy, Bridget and Gifty busted a move. Don't worry this part is all on video soon to be on Facebook. You have to see it to believe it! Lunch was at Roots Restaurant on a lovely patio under the trees. Bridget and Kristen got their pizza fix. Shema and Senora had red red, a bean and chili dish and Tilley was brave with her paw paw in light goat soup, eaten Ghana style with her hands. We then set out on foot to find a bank a few blocks away. An hour later we were still walking and looking for the elusive bank. Senora gave up and found a chair in the shade and made friends with some locals. We finally called Samuel to save us and he drove us to a bank where we replenished our funds. Home at last to a well deserved nap.
Noticing and wonderings.......
It is very rare to spot someone over the age of 50
The sun sets at 6 pm
All the school kids wear uniforms
Everyone is extremely friendly
As we walk many we turn many heads
Every taxi beeps at us
No purses or backpacks, everything is carried on their heads
We have not seen anyone smoking ( the call tabacco a narcotic)
Beach front property really doesn't mean anything. Nobody uses it.
The tro tro is always full
Everyone speaks English and their tribal language
Lizards meet us for breakfast every morning
All school girls have short hair
We have heard mostly American music in restaurants and bars
How much do the ladies that carry babanas on their heads make in one day.
Who lives behind the big houses with walls and barbed wire and what do they do?
How do the men wear long sleeves and suit coats and they don't even look hot.
Tilley, Bridget, and burg went for a walk on the beach after we posted our noticing and wonderings. We ran into a Ghanaian who was working out on the beach. He came running up to us and asked Bridget to take a picture with his phone with Kristen. His name was Sunday and he was training for soccer. We walked along the beach and were amazed at how much trash was washed up on the beach. After our walk we took a shower and decided to go out to dinner at Ryan's Irish pub. We took a cab there and wow this was an experience. We were close to hitting a cart that was being pulled in the middle of the road. We are really not sure what our driver could actually see because his windshield was cracked foggy and filthy. We were dropped off in OSU and we had to look for Ryan's Irish pub. We ended up eating there and we found out from the owner that it is the only Irish pub in west Africa. It was very pricy but had the best bathroom that we have Used in accra. There were chocolate bars (twix, snickers) on the menu; however none were actually available. We shared Fish and Chips and Cottage Pie aka Shepherds Pie. Both were delicious but crazy expensive. We also shared Sticky Toffee Pudding, which was also tasty. After all visited the bathroom we left the restaurant, and ran into a taxi who wanted 6 cedi to drive us home,we are learning to negotiate and told him Kwame only charged us 4 cedi. We don't know who Kwame is. Haha. He accepted and drove us home only going 5 mph the whole time. We learned tips for getting to Cape Coast on Friday and learned his name is Foster. We are now back watching videos of our dance skills and having some more Star while Señora cuddles with Tilley and her socks. Sweet Dreams!
The Ghana Girls :-)
Check out our drumming and dancing video
http://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=JWhL10N4RcE&feature=YouTube_gdata_player.
Noticing and wonderings.......
It is very rare to spot someone over the age of 50
The sun sets at 6 pm
All the school kids wear uniforms
Everyone is extremely friendly
As we walk many we turn many heads
Every taxi beeps at us
No purses or backpacks, everything is carried on their heads
We have not seen anyone smoking ( the call tabacco a narcotic)
Beach front property really doesn't mean anything. Nobody uses it.
The tro tro is always full
Everyone speaks English and their tribal language
Lizards meet us for breakfast every morning
All school girls have short hair
We have heard mostly American music in restaurants and bars
How much do the ladies that carry babanas on their heads make in one day.
Who lives behind the big houses with walls and barbed wire and what do they do?
How do the men wear long sleeves and suit coats and they don't even look hot.
Tilley, Bridget, and burg went for a walk on the beach after we posted our noticing and wonderings. We ran into a Ghanaian who was working out on the beach. He came running up to us and asked Bridget to take a picture with his phone with Kristen. His name was Sunday and he was training for soccer. We walked along the beach and were amazed at how much trash was washed up on the beach. After our walk we took a shower and decided to go out to dinner at Ryan's Irish pub. We took a cab there and wow this was an experience. We were close to hitting a cart that was being pulled in the middle of the road. We are really not sure what our driver could actually see because his windshield was cracked foggy and filthy. We were dropped off in OSU and we had to look for Ryan's Irish pub. We ended up eating there and we found out from the owner that it is the only Irish pub in west Africa. It was very pricy but had the best bathroom that we have Used in accra. There were chocolate bars (twix, snickers) on the menu; however none were actually available. We shared Fish and Chips and Cottage Pie aka Shepherds Pie. Both were delicious but crazy expensive. We also shared Sticky Toffee Pudding, which was also tasty. After all visited the bathroom we left the restaurant, and ran into a taxi who wanted 6 cedi to drive us home,we are learning to negotiate and told him Kwame only charged us 4 cedi. We don't know who Kwame is. Haha. He accepted and drove us home only going 5 mph the whole time. We learned tips for getting to Cape Coast on Friday and learned his name is Foster. We are now back watching videos of our dance skills and having some more Star while Señora cuddles with Tilley and her socks. Sweet Dreams!
The Ghana Girls :-)
Check out our drumming and dancing video
http://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=JWhL10N4RcE&feature=YouTube_gdata_player.
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
Obama Country
We are starting to just tell people we are from Obama country because everyone here loves Obama and the minute you say US they get so excited and say ohhh Obama Country!
Monday after breakfast/lunch we got in a taxi to go the Accra mall to buy Sim cards, get money from ATMs and some groceries. We stopped at some local shops on the street and saw people selling tons of shoes, someone grilling cow intestines, and some entertaining signs on vans. We went to Shop Rite and bought bottled water, snacks and beer. Amy, Kristen and I took a cab back to the hotel while Señora and Lisa left to explore taking a tro tro. A tro tro is a very crowded van that for very cheap drops you off places. They finally made it back to the hotel much later than us and we all found out it gets dark here around 6pm. Señora and Lisa apparently found a local market, the cultural center...where they met many people who sang for them, took them places and Rosemary even gave them a necklace. Once all back at the hotel we ate at the Tribes restaurant again. We each fish, banku, akrokro, beans, and Star beer which is very tasty. Everything was great.
We actually slept until around 10am today. I guess we are still tired. We got up and had coffee and free toast for breakfast and then followed Lisa and señora to the market they went to. What an experience this was! The minute you get there people want to pull you in every direction and show you their store and good. They say no pressure but they don't mean it. It was hot and sweaty and Amy was told she looked like a sweating pregnant fish....this is apparently not an insult. People played drums for us, dragged us all around. We each bout our share of things. Kristen Amy and I met David who makes drums, he gave us a free drum lesson and showed us his drums which he can engage especially for us. We will definitely be going back to David since he really helped us out. I made friend with Moses who showed me this instrument that is two shakers tied together by a string....they are so fun to play with and learn...I bought a set and have been entertaining myself. I know my lunch bunch will love to play with them. We saw beautiful paintings, baskets, jewelry, etc. We met señora dn Lisa back at the hotel, rested for a few then got in a cab to go to Osu. In Osu we ate at Country Kitchen, reccommended by Nadae's mom Melissa. It was delicious, here we had Fufu, ground nut soup, chicken, fish (all the fish has skin, and eyes and lots of bones) then we walked Osu, found a dress maker named Esther, visited Global Mamas and set up our dance class for tomorrow. Three hours of drumming and dance at 10am tomorrow. We made friends with an artist named Alex and he had a beer with us at a bar and told us about cooking foods here.Señora is now known as Nana...as in grandma and often refers to herself as Nana in the 3rd person. We just piled 5 of us in a cab and are now back at the Afia. I know we have many more stories to tell that I am forgetting. We will make sure to add them in. We miss everyone at home. I know you all can't wait to hear aBout us dancing and drumming tomorrow!
Bridget :-)
Monday after breakfast/lunch we got in a taxi to go the Accra mall to buy Sim cards, get money from ATMs and some groceries. We stopped at some local shops on the street and saw people selling tons of shoes, someone grilling cow intestines, and some entertaining signs on vans. We went to Shop Rite and bought bottled water, snacks and beer. Amy, Kristen and I took a cab back to the hotel while Señora and Lisa left to explore taking a tro tro. A tro tro is a very crowded van that for very cheap drops you off places. They finally made it back to the hotel much later than us and we all found out it gets dark here around 6pm. Señora and Lisa apparently found a local market, the cultural center...where they met many people who sang for them, took them places and Rosemary even gave them a necklace. Once all back at the hotel we ate at the Tribes restaurant again. We each fish, banku, akrokro, beans, and Star beer which is very tasty. Everything was great.
We actually slept until around 10am today. I guess we are still tired. We got up and had coffee and free toast for breakfast and then followed Lisa and señora to the market they went to. What an experience this was! The minute you get there people want to pull you in every direction and show you their store and good. They say no pressure but they don't mean it. It was hot and sweaty and Amy was told she looked like a sweating pregnant fish....this is apparently not an insult. People played drums for us, dragged us all around. We each bout our share of things. Kristen Amy and I met David who makes drums, he gave us a free drum lesson and showed us his drums which he can engage especially for us. We will definitely be going back to David since he really helped us out. I made friend with Moses who showed me this instrument that is two shakers tied together by a string....they are so fun to play with and learn...I bought a set and have been entertaining myself. I know my lunch bunch will love to play with them. We saw beautiful paintings, baskets, jewelry, etc. We met señora dn Lisa back at the hotel, rested for a few then got in a cab to go to Osu. In Osu we ate at Country Kitchen, reccommended by Nadae's mom Melissa. It was delicious, here we had Fufu, ground nut soup, chicken, fish (all the fish has skin, and eyes and lots of bones) then we walked Osu, found a dress maker named Esther, visited Global Mamas and set up our dance class for tomorrow. Three hours of drumming and dance at 10am tomorrow. We made friends with an artist named Alex and he had a beer with us at a bar and told us about cooking foods here.Señora is now known as Nana...as in grandma and often refers to herself as Nana in the 3rd person. We just piled 5 of us in a cab and are now back at the Afia. I know we have many more stories to tell that I am forgetting. We will make sure to add them in. We miss everyone at home. I know you all can't wait to hear aBout us dancing and drumming tomorrow!
Bridget :-)
Monday, June 27, 2011
We are Here!
Kristen and I met at Señora's house on Saturday night around 8:30 and we loaded up the van and headed off to pick up Amy and Lisa from their houses. After smashing all the luggage in the van we headed for NYC/JFK. Stopped at a trucker diner in Binghampton to go to the bathroom and Kristen was craving fried food so we ordered mozzarella sticks to go....hahaha. Tilley took over as the driver and drove at least 10 miles slower than the speed limit and turned on the heat and sweated us all out. We arrived at JFK around 4am Sunday morning to a completely empty airport, lights off and everything. Luckily it was open so we could unload and sit inside. Finally around 7am we got in line to check in...the theme of the trip so far is standing in ridiculously long lines. 7 and a half hour flight filled with children, literally half the plane was screaming running children. One whom Amy made friends with and was going to adopt....we had to hold her back. We had two meals on the plane and landed in Casablanca at 9 pm there time. We tried to get a drink at a bar, but they would only take Euros so we couldn't have anything! Finally boarded a plane for Accra at midnight for a 4 hour flight....we weren't prepared for that...thought it was only a little over two...oops. This flight was more empty so we could spread out. We landed in Accra around 4am here....got through customs with no problems, got our luggage, found the man with my name on a board. When attempting to load two cars with us, many men tried to fight over taking us in their van rather than two cars! It was entertaining. At The Afia Beach Hotel the security guard let us in our room, which was very hot due to the air not being on yet. He turned everything on for us...but there was no extra bed for Amy. We had a double, two singles and two bathrooms. So Tilley and Amy cuddled in a single! We slept for 7 hours waking up around noon....got ready, visited the beach...beautiful, wavy and windy and are now sitting in the Tribes Restaurant waiting for our first meal.Just saw a beautifully colored lizard and Señora and Lisa took 20 pictures of it so Widmaier if you are reading this....the pics are for you! The food is here...gotta go!
Sunday, June 19, 2011
One Week to go...
Alright it is definitely time to get this blog started! In one week the Ghana Girls will be on a plane headed to Accra,Ghana! Here is a breakdown on this fabolous opportunity:
* For those who do not know us: We are four special subject teachers at World of Inquiry School #58 in Rochester, NY. Kristen teaches Physical Education, Lisa is our Librarian/Media Specialist, Cathy aka Señora teaches K-6th grade Spanish and I teach 4th-8th grade Instrumental Music and 7th grade General Music.
* Kristen, Lisa, Señora and I applied for a grant through Fund For Teachers in January. Our proposal was to study the fusion of music, drumming and dance in Ghana. The proposal was accepted in March and we received the full amount for $10,000.
* Shortly after receiving the grant, we booked our flights. We fly out of JFK on Sunday June 26 at 8am to Casablanca, Morocco and from there to Accra, Ghana. We land in Ghana on Monday June 27 at 3:30am. We return to JFK on Monday July 11. The flights cost nearly $1700 a person.
* Another teacher from WOIS, Amy is also traveling with us. She just couldn't pass up the opportunity!
* We have two hotels booked, one in Accra when we first arrive from June 27-July 1: The Afia African Village and one from July 1-6 in Cape Coast: The Coconut Grove Beach Resort. We left the last leg of the trip open so we can decide what we want to do after being there for awhile.
* We will be taking classes through Global Mamas on drumming, dance, cooking, etc. As well as traveling to The castles used during the slave trade, Kakum National Park, and much more.
* We have been busy researching Ghana, and shopping for light weight clothes, shoes, and supplies.
This is our last week of school, so we will be busy with exams, the Elementary Talent Show, 25 Book Campaign BBQ, Kindergarten and 6th grade moving up ceremonies and not to mention packing! And then Saturday night we will load up Señora's van and head to NYC! We cannot wait!
Until next time,
Bridget :-)
* For those who do not know us: We are four special subject teachers at World of Inquiry School #58 in Rochester, NY. Kristen teaches Physical Education, Lisa is our Librarian/Media Specialist, Cathy aka Señora teaches K-6th grade Spanish and I teach 4th-8th grade Instrumental Music and 7th grade General Music.
* Kristen, Lisa, Señora and I applied for a grant through Fund For Teachers in January. Our proposal was to study the fusion of music, drumming and dance in Ghana. The proposal was accepted in March and we received the full amount for $10,000.
* Shortly after receiving the grant, we booked our flights. We fly out of JFK on Sunday June 26 at 8am to Casablanca, Morocco and from there to Accra, Ghana. We land in Ghana on Monday June 27 at 3:30am. We return to JFK on Monday July 11. The flights cost nearly $1700 a person.
* Another teacher from WOIS, Amy is also traveling with us. She just couldn't pass up the opportunity!
* We have two hotels booked, one in Accra when we first arrive from June 27-July 1: The Afia African Village and one from July 1-6 in Cape Coast: The Coconut Grove Beach Resort. We left the last leg of the trip open so we can decide what we want to do after being there for awhile.
* We will be taking classes through Global Mamas on drumming, dance, cooking, etc. As well as traveling to The castles used during the slave trade, Kakum National Park, and much more.
* We have been busy researching Ghana, and shopping for light weight clothes, shoes, and supplies.
This is our last week of school, so we will be busy with exams, the Elementary Talent Show, 25 Book Campaign BBQ, Kindergarten and 6th grade moving up ceremonies and not to mention packing! And then Saturday night we will load up Señora's van and head to NYC! We cannot wait!
Until next time,
Bridget :-)
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